I love talking about Wax fabrics, it’s a real passion. Those who meet me and have the misfortune to ask me for my opinion or questions often regret it because I am inexhaustible on the subject. I’m a truth blabbermouth, but I always aking myself a lot of questions on this subject.
I teach nothing to anybody by saying that originally, it is especially in Europe where the wax is produced, in particularly by a company of which the hegemony is almost an exception: Vlisco. For reminder, Vlisco holds the brands Vlisco (which production plant is located to Helmond in Holland), Woodin, Uniwax and GTP (factories are in Africa for these 3 last ones). In terms of brand strategy, one of the strengths of Vlisco was to set up a brand portfolio with different positionings and different strategies, to avoid any cannibalism between them.
But since a decade, this hegemony is
more and more disputed by the raid of the Chinese in the wax fabrics market.
Following the example of Vlisco, they manage the design, the production and the
marketing of their wax fabrics in Africa (Soso Wax). The entry of the Chinese
on this market is all the more aggressive as not only they produce their own
models of fabrics but in more they do not hesitate to copy some key models of
Vlisco and cherry on the cake all this at prices widely lower than those of
Vlisco.
We thus find ourselves with a hyper
competitive market where counterfeit became a queen, in the point to shake the
giant Vlisco, obliged to revise its copy in terms of marketing strategy and
positioning stands out. Indeed, Vlisco opts for a repositioning stand out on a
segment dislocate and adopts a strategy which we can consider as
"fast-fashion", by creating new collections every 3 months, to leave
not much time with counterfeit.
My question
is: how could it have come to this? I mean, how China did to reach so easily
the African market with their fake and cheap wax fabrics? If Dutch people at
that time had took advantage of an opportunity, for Chinese people at this
present time, its seems to handle with :
1) Geopolitical
stakes
2)
Chinese investments strategies
![]() |
source : www.rfi.fr |
1) Geopolitical
stakes:
How many times did not we tax such or
such other country to act in a neocolonialist way towards some African
countries and years after the independences? The relations with China has been developed
in this context, on one hand for economic reasons and others part to take out
of a shape of yoke and put in competition the various partners to obtain the
best price. It turned out that China had the best arguments. It has been now
decade, since more and more Chinese settle down with their family in Africa to
work in construction sites, build infrastructures etc.... This strong presence
allowed Chinese people, according to me, to study local markets, to understand
and take especially note of the desire of the Africans for wax fabrics and
enter into this market, monopoly of Vlisco.
2) Investments
strategies:
But What I didn’t realize until I read “Le journal du
Textile” N°2160 of March 12th, it’s far beyond the setting up in the wax
fabrics market, but it is well and truly in all the African textile sector that
China became established, in the point to have the control over it. It’s with
astonishment and surprise that I learn in this magazine that:
-
China
undertakes since several years massive investments in the acquisition of cotton
fields to secure its own supplies.
-
China creates
textile factories in Africa (in particularly in Ghana, Kenya, South Africa) to
produce clothes on the spot and export it to America.
-
China targets
Africa for its clothing exports and this in a more intensive way in the coming
years, to face the current backward drop of its world exports (In 2012 , there
has been a decrease of 10 %).
By knowing that, I realize that after
all that the raid of the Chinese in the wax fabric market is really a delusion,
an accessory, just cosmetic, it is the tree which hides the forest. Why so many
articles are dedicated to the Chinese wax invasion and counterfeit? Actually, isn’t it just a business issue for
the actors playing in that market? Should not we rather pay our attention on
what really takes place in the African textile industry and this Chinese
control?
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